It is good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end
Ernest Hemmingway
I get to travel some for work, and luckily on a recent work trip I had an opportunity to try to climb the highest peak in East Asia, Jade Mountain in Taiwan. But this adventure began not at the TaTaJia Trailhead at the Jade Mountain National Park in Alishan, Taiwan, but long before that. Just getting to the trailhead to climb Jade Mountain (玉山) was an adventure all by itself. Part one of this trail report will detail the trail to the trailhead, and part two will detail the climb itself.
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| Jade Mountain Park Entry Permit Application |
To climb Jade Mountain, you cannot just show up and start climbing the mountain. There are two different permits you must attain before entering. The first permit will authorize entry into the Yu Shan National Park, the application can be found by clicking here. Because I was also planning on summiting and returning in one day, the requirements included providing photos of yourself on 3 or more summits above 3000 Meters (almost 10,000 feet), your exercise regimen in preparing for the climb, your equipment list...even your "Environmental Education" background (pack it in, pack it out, respect the mountain and terrain, etc.) Being an Eagle Scout has its privileges.
The second application is a "Mountain Entry Permit", the application for this permit must be filed with the Interior Ministry of the National Police Agency of Taiwan here. When you enter the park, the police station at the entrance takes the top half of the form. If they don't get the second half of the form back when you descend, that's when they send out the search parties, looking over the cliffs to see if you've fallen off the mountain.
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Scenes from a Train Ride. And my ear.
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Once I got to ChiaYi, I went to the Big Elephant Scooter shop and rented myself a monster of a 125cc moped. Taiwan is full of motor scooters, it's the most convenient way to get around and they're pretty fun to ride. But when I told the shop keeper where I was heading...he just laughed and shook his head. He couldn't believe first that I was planning on climbing Jade Mountain, and then couldn't believe that I was riding a scooter that far. But he took my $400 Taiwan Dollars (about USD $14), and I was off. After fueling up, I was on the road.
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| First view of the mountains...Beginning my climb from sea level to 2600 meters. I got the scooter over 100 km/hr at one point on this straight away, which is much faster than I have skills to manage. |
I quickly turned up the skill level on the motor-scooter...At stop lights I start firing through the intersection when the opposite lights turned yellow (when the crossing light turns yellow that in essence means your light is green, even though it's red); I swerved and leaned into my turns like a pro; I non-chalantly pulled within 3-4 inches of dumptrucks and buses, sucking in fumes of other motorscooters and industrial vehicles. Most people wear face masks to avoid inhaling the exhaust of so many vehicles, but not me. You only live once.
The road up the mountain was a two lane highway, winding and winding and winding...steep drops on one side of the road and cars passing each other with obstructed views. There were also a lot of very large vehicles going up and down this road, tour buses, construction trucks. They really have no problem with passing one another on blind corners, either. The whole traffic system is a series of suggestions and flow. Just keep the roads flowing, don't stop and get in the way, avoid items larger than you, etc. To see video footage of the road click here.
After riding for about an hour, and once I had climbed to a certain altitude, the mists and fog and clouds began to appear. It became difficult to see more than 30 yards in any direction because of how thick the tropical mists were at this elevation. I slowed down quite a bit, but began to realize I may not be able to see any of the mountains, and my hike would be done in a foggy haze. Trail Running outlook not so great.
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| My trusty old steed at the entrance of Jade Mountain National Park. I hear the park is beautiful, but I couldn't see more than a few feet in front of me because of the fog. |
The park was empty. Really, no one. I didn't see anyone for about the last 30 minutes of my ride. And a road trip that I thought might take less than two hours ended up taking 3.5 hours, because I couldn't go very fast with such a limited view. I was wet, cold, and hungry. I was planning on buying some dinner at a roadside restaurant, or even a convenience store as a last resort, since you can't walk more than three steps in Taiwan without running into some sort of convenience store. But this place was empty! Like I said it had been 30 minutes since I had seen anyone, and even longer since I had seen any type of building. Who knew that such a crowded little island could have such solitude.
I finally found the Hostel that I had reserved for the night and checked in. It was about 5:00 PM, and there were only a couple of people there. The manager showed me to my bed, and I took my wet clothes off and got settled. I was in a room with 32 beds, and there was another adjoining bed that had 32 beds, although it looked like there were only 3 or 4 that would be occupied.
I asked the manager where the closest convenience store was, as I was getting hungry. I had some power bars and gu chomps with me, a couple fruit leathers, but those were for the trail, not ideal for pre-race fuel. "oh, they're all closed, they close up here early". So I asked if she had any food I could buy, she had some ramen noodle bowls and could give me some hot water for dinner. I happily ate two bowls of beef-type flavor noodles and hoped that they had enough MSG in them to power me through the next morning.
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| Not the ideal pre-race meal, but better than nothing. I believe the oily mystery-meat flavor pack that I'm squeezing in here may have shaved a year or two off of my life. |
More people started showing up, and the hostel was soon full. Big tour groups came in, one group took up one entire room at the hostel. Only a few were planning on hiking, others were just taking photos of the area around the park, not hiking or camping, just enjoying the scenery. One guy even had ridden his bike up to this spot, almost 100 km of uphill riding in a day. The folks who were climbing Jade Mountain planned on spending three days here, and couldn't believe I was planning on trail running. Some were leaving at 2:00 AM, some were leaving at 3:00, some at 4:00. I decided to change my plan and leave around 4:30, seeing how that was the cool thing to do. I would be the last hiker to leave for the trail that morning.
I was still experiencing a little jet lag, and so I was one of the first to hit the sack. Incredibly, intolerably loud snoring from the guy next to me and the guy above me woke me up at about midnight, and it was so noisy and startling it keep me awake for a while. I switched my head to the opposite side of the bed, and luckily there was some sort of de-humidifier by my bed, I turned in on high so it created enough white noise that I was able to fall back to sleep for a while. But it had some sort of internal sensor that would shut it off after a while, so I fell into a routine of turning on the de-humidifier, falling asleep, being awoken by the dinosaur snore, and turning on the de-humidifier. Lovely.
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| I've included this photo for Sam's enjoyment. Ready...Aim... |
One last thing. For those of you that have never been to Asia, and never before experienced a squatter, in many rural and traditional locations there are not toilets, only squatters. They're essentially a strategically placed hole in the floor. You have to position yourself as best you can and try to not fall over while you're taking care of your business. For anyone who's had a knee injury or who doesn't practice yoga with regularity, it can be a bit of a challenge, to say the least. The first few times using one of these is more difficult than you would think. TMI.
I got out of bed at 4:30, at some bread thingies I had stored from a 7-11 the day before, and got ready to leave. No one else was awake, and those who were also hiking had departed long ago. I jumped on my scooter with my camelbak and went out into the darkness to find the trail.
To be continued....









































